Off the Beaten Track

Essaouira

This town is the Moroccan coastal spot most popular with independent travellers, and only rarely do you see package tours here. By the looks of things, however, this won't last forever. Essaouira has a beautiful beach that curves for kilometres to the south.

Those who've had enough haggling and jostling in the big cities will be glad to hear this town can be summed up in one word: relaxing. The forts of the old city are a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture, and their massiveness lends a powerful mystique to the town.

Tafraoute

This unspectacular town about halfway down Morocco's Atlantic coast is a good base for hiking trips in the surrounding hills and to Berber villages. Check out the the strange and eccentric array of painted rocks situated just outside the town that were created by a Belgian artist.

Todra Gorge

Near the High Atlas town of Tinerhir, at the end of a lush valley of palms and villages, hemmed in by barren craggy mountains, is one of Morocco's most glorious sights. The Todra Gorge is some 300m (984ft) high but only 10m (33ft) wide at its narrowest point, with a river running through it.

Although the main gorge can be explored in half a day, it's best to head further up the gorge towards Tinerhir. There are numerous kasbahs and the locals are friendly. Rock climbing is becoming popular on the gorge's vertical rock face and camping around the base is also an attractive option.

Volubilis

Volubilis is the site of the largest and best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco. It dates largely from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, although excavations have revealed that the site was originally settled by Carthaginian traders even earlier. Signposting is minimal, so hiring a guide is recommended. There's a hotel and camping facilities.