Off the Beaten Track

Ball Pass Crossing

The 2121m (6957ft) Ball Pass Crossing is a demanding two- to three-day alpine route in the South Island's Mt Cook National Park. The terrain takes in steep snow slopes set against the dramatic backdrop of the Caroline Face of Mt Cook. The route is no stroll and should only be attempted by professional masochists experienced in the use of ice axes, crampons and alpine route-finding. Apparently the sense of achievement in crossing the pass entitles you to enter an elite club of euphoric high-achievers.

Great Barrier Island

This island at the mouth of the Hauraki Gulf has acres of long, white sandy beaches on its eastern shore, deep-water sheltered inlets on its western shore, and a rugged spine of steep ridges running down the centre. The 80,000ha (197,684ac) reserve has a number of walking tracks that combine old logging trails and tramways. Natural hot springs, towering kauri forests and a serene aura make it a perfect escape. Flights and ferries operate from Auckland, 88km (55mi) to the south.

Harihari

Harihari is a small town on the west coast of the South Island, and it made world headlines in 1931 when Guy Menzies completed the first solo flight across the Tasman Sea from Australia. The journey was hassle-free but the landing proved a disaster: the aircraft overturned in a swamp, and Menzies, upon undoing his safety straps, fell - much to the delight of the cheering locals - head-first into the mud. The town is now known as a base for coastal walks, birdwatching, and trout and salmon fishing.

Stewart Island

New Zealand's third-largest island, Stewart Island is an ornithologist's delight: tui, parakeets, kaka and bellbirds abound. The kiwi, rare in both the North and South Island, is common over much of this island, particularly around beaches. A good network of walking tracks and huts exist on the northern part of the island while the south is largely undeveloped and isolated. The people (around 420 all up) are hardy, taciturn and suspicious of mainlanders. The weather is changeable and the accommodation is basic; there are, however, excellent-value homestays on the island.

Whangaparaoa Bay

A succession of picturesque bays leads to Whangaparaoa Bay, 50km (31mi) west of the North Island's East Cape. The beaches are deeply shelved and littered with driftwood, and the old Anglican church, nestled under Norfolk pines on a lone promontory, should not be missed. Cape Runaway can only be reached by foot, and you'll need to seek permission before going on private land.