Off the Beaten Track

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

This park is the result of a merger between the former Kalahari-Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and the Mabuasehabe-Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. About twice the size of Kruger, Kgalagadi is not as famous as many other African parks but it is, nonetheless, one of the greatest.

The size of the park is crucial for the unhindered migration of antelopes which are often forced to travel great distances to reach water and food. Although the countryside is described as semidesert, it is richer than it appears and supports large populations of birds, reptiles and small mammals.

Port St Johns

At the mouth of the Umzimvubu River in Eastern Cape, Port St Johns is an idyllic little town with a dominant black population and a relaxed atmosphere. Artists and craftspeople have been escaping the cities to set up studios and workshops in the area, some of which you can visit.

This is about as close as you'll come to the new rural South Africa. There's tropical vegetation, dramatic cliffs, great beaches and a good range of backpacker-style accommodation. Silaka Nature Reserve, a small coastal reserve just to the south, is a hang-out for otter and white-breasted cormorant.

The Shipwreck Coast

This stretch of Eastern Cape coast, a graveyard for numerous ships, is largely unspoilt. There are a couple of resort towns and the inevitable casino, but it's easy to get away from it all. The Shipwreck Hiking Trail extends for 64km (38mi), but there are several entry and exit points for hikers.

This is one of the few walking areas in South Africa where you can set your own pace, camp more or less where you choose and light fires (providing they are on sand and well away from vegetation). Those who make the effort are amply rewarded.